Fuselage (page 53)
This photo is of the prototype during the
earlier phases of construction.
April 4 2013 (continued) - 1472.0hrs total.  I'm concerned
that the bottom longeron is not recessed into the bulkheads
far enough - some more than others created the wiggle as
shown on page 52. I'll need to remove quite a lot of material
from the bottom longeron to create a smooth profile to wrap
the skin across the bottom of the fuselage following the lines
of the bulkheads. It looks like I may need to remove as
much as 1/4" from the 1X1 spruce bottom longeron. Right
now my plan is to go ahead and shape it, then see how bad
it is.  If I've removed too much material I'll laminate more
material on the top or side, or both to compensate.
My next worry is the hump on the top of the fuselage. I
believe I created this by using ratchet straps when I glued on
earlier skin pieces - before I discovered how well staples
work.
I think by gluing the skin on with the ratchet straps cranked very tight it squeezed the BHs on the sides and caused
them to deform upwards. You can see in the photos below that there is a significant hump where I believe it should be
a flat line.
Hump spans 2 or 3 BHs and is about 1/4" to 5/16" high. Note - parallax
error on the ruler.  Not exact measurements - just a ballpark idea.
Its noticeable if you're looking for it.
Maybe its not even worth worrying
about? I'm sure its not a structural or
flight issue - purely aesthetic.
Compare mine to Steve's.
His is very straight.
Here's a real MK-VIII
These are a real MKV
This is a MK-IX
(Thanks to
Wayne "Butch"
Foster for that!)
Terry's has a definite
hump, but it seems further
forward than mine?
April 6 2013 2.5hrs - 1474.5 total. Started trimming the skin that extends past the vert stab and cover the joint area
with the rudder. Wanted to have it extend far enough to completely  cover the rudder hinge opening, but its too
narrow at the top to allow this. Went and bought some cove molding to reinforce skin overhang. Trial fit show its
going to need to be trimmed at the top of the vert stab as the rudder fits pretty tight in that area. Spent some more
time looking at "hump" back on my aircraft and went back and checked the plans - and the hump is actually built into
the plans!  At least I didn't put it in there by accident!  The more I look at it, the less I'm worried about it. The wiggle
on the bottom appears to only be in the longeron - not the positioning of the bulkheads.  So all I'm really going to
need to do is add some more material to the top side of the bottom longeron, and shape the bottom as needed.
If you click on this photo and look
closely at the large image you can
see the hump in the plans!
Starting to trim
the vert stab
skin to rudder
overhang.
April 13 2013 3.0hrs - 1177.5 total. Continued trimming the skin that extends back from the vert stab. Prepared
molding strips that will be glued on inside of these skin sections.  Stab and rudder are considerably narrower at the
top, so it took a lot of work to get these strips the right shape.  Finished prepping them and sanded the internal
surfaces of the skin and the back side of the vert stab post in preparation for gluing.
April 14 2013 2.0hrs - 1179.5 total. Glued in molding strips.
April 20 2013 2.5hrs - 1182.0 total. Sanded glue joints and all other
surfaces on back side of vert stab where moldings were glued in.  Surfaces
are ready for a couple of coats of sealer. Re-installed rudder hinges and
temp installed rudder again for trial fit. Started planning for fiberglass fairing
at vert stab to fuselage join. Bought some pink foam and other supplies.  
Don't have any actual fiberglass cloth yet. Started sanding and prepping the
area to install the foam that will be shaped for an in-place male mold.
April 21 2013 3.5hrs - 1185.5 total. Tried positioning some pink foam. It
sand very nicely, but because of the complex shape of the area it needs to go
its just too difficult to get it in there. Decided to try using duct tape to bridge all the gaps.  Works OK, but needed a
little support so I stuffed underneath the tape with plastic shopping bags. Masked off surrounding areas. Still need to
get some glass cloth.
Male fairing mold made from clear
duct tape stuffed with plastic
shopping bags. Wrapped black
electrical tape around edges of
existing skin to mark edges of fairing.
Reinforcement
moldings glued in
place.