Fuselage (page 61)
This photo is of the prototype during the
earlier phases of construction.
February 2 2015 1.0hrs - 2242.5 total. Went by the parts store and picked up a
roll of 18gauge aircraft wire and all the 1/4" spiral wrap they had (about 14ft). Cut
short length off the 5 lead trim motor wire roll to run from rudder trim motor into
fuselage. Prepped and soldered extension onto trim motor leads.

February 6 2015 2.5hrs - 2245.0 total. Using spiral wrap, made up wiring
harness of 2ea 18gauge wires for the tail light and 2 ea 6 strand 26gauge cables
for the elevator and rudder trim motors. Loosely routed in place in lightening holes
down port side of fuselage. Local homebuilt inspector is coming for a visit
tomorrow so spent some time cleaning up the shop and temp installed the rudder,
tail light, clamped in the rudder pedal box, and dropped the seat in place.
Rudder trim tab motor lead extension
soldered and shrink wrapped.
Overview of tail showing wiring,
tubing, tail light, strut, etc all in place.
Trim motor and tail light wires in spiral
wrap routed loosely down port side.
This view show where the elevator
trim motor wire separates from the
bundle and routes into its tubing.
February 7 2015 3.0hrs -2245.5 total. Sanded down a couple of the spots on the fuselage where I've been using left over epoxy to fill
in slight dips in the skin at the scarf joints. Noticed the skin around the front of the rudder had a couple of spots that didn't look sealed
very well. Sanded down the rudder leading edge skin and noticed the skin piece I'd scarfed and glues in at the top of the rudder and
horn had not been sanded or shaped.  Sanded this all down to shape.  Sealed all these areas.  Also sealed the areas where I'd made
holes for the tubing to carry the wires from the fuselage into the rudder.  Glued and screwed tube bracket in place in rear of fuselage.

February 8 2015 2.0hrs - 2247.5 total. Mounted rudder back on fuselage. Final zip tied wires into place in rudder.  Added some
shrink wrap as shielding where needed. Final zip tied the spiral wrapped wire bundle into place up port side of fuselage. Added a cable
clamp for elevator trim wire support. Removed rudder, tail wheel strut, seat, rudder pedal box and any other loose items.  Cleaned off
work bench. Jacked up tail a bit and removed bracing. Have tail held up with a board across a couple of jack stands and front end of
fuselage has all the clamps removed so its just sitting loose in place now.  Need to get some help and roll the entire structure partially
on its side so I can start shaping the bottom longeron.

February 9 2015 1.5hrs - 2249.0 total. Recruited four helpers and was able to move the worktable forward and roll the fuselage
completely onto its port side. I didn't think there was room to go the full 90 degrees. Now I can start on rounding off the bottom
longeron.  This would also be a good time to install the fixture and wiring for the top light that will go just behind the antenna mast -
which hasn't been made or installed yet.
Bracket to hold tubing that
extends in from rudder.
Skin piece at top of rudder sanded to
shape and sealed. Leading edge skin
with a new coat of sealer.
Fuselage rolled 90 degrees onto its port side.
Now I can get to the bottom
longeron and start shaping it.
February 11 2015 1.5hrs - 2250.5 total. Rigged up some bracing and straps to hold fuselage firmly in place and allow removal of the
temporary strap supports used to turn it onto its side. Started taping some drop cloths inside the fuselage and taping over lightening
holes to try to keep the sawdust out when I start shaping the bottom longeron.

February 14 2015 4.5hrs - 2255.0 total. Finished masking off fuselage to keep out sawdust. Used hand-held belt sander to shape
bottom longeron. The only way to get the correct shape involved also sanding back the profile on several of the bulkheads. Once the
final shape was achieved I was finally able to see what I would have to do with the section between the tailwheel strut and the
rudder.  I knew it was not lined up, but I'd never been able to see how much. Marked and sanded back to correct profile.  To get the
correct shape on these last two bulkheads, now that I'd removed about 1/2 inch from their hight, I dug out the full size template
drawings and used them to trace the correct outer profile. Sanded BHs to correct shape. Got out detail sander and cleaned up the
edges on all the BHs, and the longeron, and fine sanded the longeron a little.

February 15 2015 5.0hrs - 2260.0 total. Removed the strut bracket that protruded slightly beyond edge of BH and ground down a
little, wire brushed, temp reinstalled. Sanded and ground down area inside bottom of rudder post where extra blocking needed to be
placed. Made up blocking piece and a reinforcing strip for the small stringer between the strut and rudder post. Drilled some
lightening holes in it. Made up a couple of stringers for section below main diaphragm.  These stringers aren't on the main fuselage
drawing, but there's a notch in the bulkheads for them. Went ahead and installed them. Found two glue joints on the bottom longeron
that needed to be redone.  Cut them out and prepped to be re-glued. Sealed area on longeron I couldn't get to when it was blocked by
brace before.  Glued in rudder post blocking piece and stringer stiffener. Glued in stringers under main diaphragm.  Re-glued where
I'd cut out the bad joints on the bottom longeron. Sealed up a couple of other areas on the bottom longeron joints where I had shaped
and sanded them earlier.
Bottom longeron and BHs
sanded to final shape.
Area between tailwheel strut and rudder sanded down to correct size and shape.
Two extra stringers being glued
in under main diaphragm.
Rudder post blocking and
stiffener strip glued in place.
Repaired glue joint.
Ground down edge of
bracket - it actually protruded
beyond edge of BH before.
February 16 2015 4.5hrs - 2264.5 total. Removed clamps and sanded down joints from
yesterday's glue job. Sanded outer profile of new stringers to match BH profiles. Tried a
sample piece of skin on area between strut and rudder post. Realized bottom of rudder post
must be shaped wrong.  Looked up in
Monforton book and verified correct shape. Marked
and sanded to correct shape. Made up a paper template for piece of skin to cover entire
open area on aft SB side of fuselage. Used some artists charcoal to show underlying BHs
and stringers. Traced onto 1.5mm plywood. Marked through paper template with awl.
Removed template and traced out patterns on plywood. Rough cut plywood to shape.
Area to be covered. Actually standing
on a ladder looking down at it here.
Making a paper pattern.
Rubbed artist charcoal on it to
reveal underlying structures.
Pattern has been traced onto
plywood and pattern removed.
Hard to see in this shot.
Rough cut skin piece, first trial fit.
February 22 2015 4.0hrs - 2268.5 total. Trimmed and sanded skin piece to final shape. Put in positioning pins. Scarfed all the skin
overlap joints. Also trimmed back some of the existing skin on the fuselage so that the scarf edges terminate on the longerons and
bulkheads.  Since it will be difficult, if not impossible to reach inside to clean up the glue joints when its glued, I think they will work
better if the overlaps terminate on the edge of a BH or other internal structure. As it will be difficult to reach inside here once its glued in
place I'm going to try to put the access hatches in place on the skin piece before its glued on.

February 24 2015 2.5hrs - 2271.0 total. Some of the DB-9 connectors I ordered a couple weeks ago have started to arrive. Used crimp
on pins and made up a male DB-9 connector with the 18gauge tail light on pins 1&2 and the 5 26 gauge trim motor leads on leads 5-9.  
The small 26 gauge cable just wouldn't work with the crimp on pins - kept breaking off.  This is finally an area where I feel
comfortable.  I used to make up DB-9 and DB-25 cables all day long when I was a data-comm tech back in the 80's.  So I know what
I'm doing with these connectors, and the 26gauge wire just doesn't have enough meat to handle the strain, even with the pins crimped
properly on the insulation for strain relief. I left the 2ea 18gauge wires for the tail light in the male connector and used a separate
solder-on female DB-9 for the trim motor cable. When you tin the 26gauge wires, some of the solder flows up the stranded cable and
creates a nice additional stiffness just where it needs it. Also added some heat shrink tubing to each wire, and also another over all for
additional strain relief. Then wrapped some silicone tape around that for the hood strain relief clamp to grip.  Put some fingernail polish
on the hood nuts to act as lock-tight then wrapped the hoods themselves with silicone tape to insure the nuts don't come out and the
hoods don't come apart.

February 25 2015 2.0hrs - 2273.0 total. Marked and cut out access port holes in new skin piece. Sanded to final shape.

February 27 2015 4.5hrs - 2277.5 total. Went to parts shop and picked up all the remaining hardware to mount tail wheel strut. Final
installed bolt though bungie bracket on strut oleo including cotter pin.  Loose installed all other hardware to make sure it all fits and I
have all the pieces.  Drilled, counter sunk oleo strut forward steel bracket for rivets for nut plate.  Installed and riveted in nut plate.
Touched up paint for corrosion protection. Touched up paint on oleo strut also. Marked and cut out plywood access panel nut plate
backing rings for fuselage access ports. Trimmed and sanded to final shape. Found I'm completely out of 6-32 nut plates.  Need 13 just
for these two panels. Have been worried about how I would disconnect the trim motor wires in the elevator.  Got it figured out for the
rudder, but not sure what I will do for the elevator. Thought I remembered an access panel on the bottom of the horiz stab. Looked in
the Monforton book and found exact dimension and location. It will be perfect to allow me to put disconnect inside stab instead of
elevator - if thats what I decide to do. Made up a cardboard template.
Skin final fit, all joints scarfed.
Pinned in position.
Rudder trim motor cable connector
before hood closed up
.
Trim motor connector and tail light
connector. Opposite genders so you
can't plug them in wrong!
Hatch holes cut and
sanded to final shape.
Nut plate backing ring for access panel.
Nut plate backing ring for access panel.
Oleo bracket with nut
plate riveted in place.
Oleo bungie bolt final installed.
Making template for horiz stab access hatch.